When considering business high-end fashion suits for men, not much else compares to custom-made suits. This is not to say there is anything wrong with buying well-tailored suits off a rack, it just doesn’t compare to having a customized suit that is created to your exact specifications. Here’s the difference between bespoke and made-to-measure suits.
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BESPOKE AND MADE-TO-MEASURE SUITS
I had the pleasure to make a bespoke suit with Alan David Custom. It was my first ever bespoke suit so I wanted to learn more about what bespoke meant since it gets throw around a lot in the menswear scene. Tailors often use “bespoke” as the term to describe custom-made clothes as this was considered traditionally as one of the better ways to create a suit that is personalized according the specifications of the buyer.
BESPOKE VS MADE-TO-MEASURE SUITS
However, the term “bespoke” has a very direct definition and you may end up spending a fortune under the assumption that your “custom-made” suit is actually bespoke. Unfortunately, this is not often true.
Bespoke is derived from the verb bespeak, meaning to “speak for something”. This meaning of the verb is first cited in 1583. It later evolved to mean “ordered, commissioned, arranged for” and is first cited in 1607. The term is generally British English. It later came to mean to discuss, and then to describe something that was discussed in advance, as in let’s discuss what kind of suit I want to make. Which is how it came to be associated with tailor-made apparel. However, in the middle of the 18th century, bespoke was often found describing things that one wears; it was not yet applied to suits. In the second half of the 18th century the word was found in the theater, to describe plays which were made to order! The earliest evidence of the bespoke suit comes in the middle of the 19th century.
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES NOW?
In the past few years, “bespoke” is a term that has become hijacked by advertising and marketing gurus that are constantly pushing boundaries in association to the effort that will go into producing a suit. This has resulted in advertisements that promise bespoke which now no longer promises the same type of personal services of the hand-made suits of the past.
COMPLETE HANDMADE ITEM
Bespoke is actually defined as a complete handmade item, where a pattern will be cut and designed from scratch. I went with a seersucker pattern! I knew I had some travel in warm areas in the future and I wanted to be ready when summer rolls in again. My visit with Alan David stared with an initial fitting, which allows the tailor to adjust a half-made suit at what is known as the intermediary baste-stage.
This means your options are limitless when it comes to the actual design of your suit as there won’t be anything to adjust or build on. I had three fittings at Alan David Custom to make sure I had the perfect fit.
Today, many tailors that advertise using the word “bespoke” are actually offering Made To Measure better known as MTM. They will take your measurements, and you will still have different choices, yet the actual suit is created from a pattern that already exists. While there is not anything wrong with the approach, it is still important to know that these design processes are not “true” bespoke.
WHAT TO EXPECT FROM TRUE BESPOKE
Here is a list of the more important differences that is an indication of “true bespoke” quality:
⚫️You should have just about unlimited choices when it comes to the fabrics and linings and any of the style details should not be a problem.
⚫️The suit will be cut from the pattern which was specifically created for you. This provides for accurate records and guarantees that the pattern can be adjusted or corrected after your first fitting.
⚫️ True bespoke will involve a minimum of 2 fittings. The first fitting is the “skeleton” which is in most cases done without the pockets. Your 2nd fitting will be more advanced. Once the suit is finished you will be offered with another chance to try the suit on. Notice no pockets (or buttons) in the picture? It’s the skeleton!
⚫️ In an ideal situation, the tailor that cuts the fabric will also be doing the measurements, fitting and the sewing. A successful bespoke-suit involves a defined combination of tailoring and cutting expertise.
HOW TO MAKE SURE YOUR SUIT IS BESPOKE
There are a few important questions that you can ask to determine whether you are actually paying for a made-to-measure or a true bespoke suit:
⚫️The best way to find out is to ask the tailor whether they create made-to-measure suits or are they a “true” bespoke tailor?
⚫️Ask about your options, as mentioned above, bespoke will always offer more options as the suit will be made from scratch. If you discover the tailor is only offering a set list of different options, the chances are high that these are MTM suits.
⚫️Ask about the grades and the fabrics. A bespoke suit is always a lot more expensive than a made-to-measure. If a tailor has promised bespoke yet tell you they use medium grade opposed to high-quality grade, this is a warning sign not to do business with this person.
⚫️Ask about the location. Ask the tailor where the suit will be produced. They may take your measurements in one place, but where will the production take place?
⚫️Ask the tailor about the turnaround time. Keep in mind that a true bespoke suit could take anything from 2 to 6 months. If the tailor promises to complete the suit within a couple of weeks, the chances are high that this is not a true bespoke.
CONCLUSION
At the end of the day you need to decide exactly what you require. If you are prepared to pay and wait for a suit, then nothing much else compares to bespoke suits. Here is my completed suit from Alan David Custom. It took around 6 months to complete. Well worth it for a unique piece that was built from the ground up just for me.
If you decide on a made-to-measure suit there are also great options available. However, it is important to know the design options may be less, and many designs are in most cases created overseas where they are returned to the U.S. While there is nothing wrong with MTM suits, you must make sure you are not paying a bespoke price.
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Thanks for reading, y’all stay dandy. 😎 Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram!
-Diego