Today’s guest writer is Nicole R. Brown, founder of men’s neckwear company Ruth Nathan’s; she is going to school us on women rocking menswear.
It’s 11:52pm on a Friday night in Harlem. The crowd is throbbing. The piano is getting the best massage it’s ever had in its entire life. Music is buzzing through the full and boisterous hall. A raspy voice bellows out “raunchy” tunes from underneath a top hat. But wait! Look at that. It’s a woman singing!?! Meet Gladys Bentley, Queer trail blazer and entertainer, of the Harlem Renaissance period. She was one of the first “masculine dressers” who defied cultural norms and wore top hat, tails, and my personal preference, bow ties.
March is Women’s History Month. You usually wouldn’t think of suits and ties when you hear about Women’s history, but I dropped in on my friend Dandy in the Bronx to shed a little light on the subject.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE WOMEN WHO ARE CHANGING MENSWEAR
Over the years there have been several women influencers to menswear, both public figures and designers alike. When I think of entertainers that could have possibly been influenced by Ms. Bentley, a favorite comes to mind, Janelle Monae. She became popular for her signature look of a black and white ensemble with a bow tie to complete. Since her debut, she has evolved her style to become less masculine. However, she always has a dandy look about her as she pushes the definition of what women are “supposed” to wear. She defies many labels.
Argent is a design house that has changed menswear to make it more functional for women. The suits come in a vibrant range of colors with utility pockets for women’s items in the blazers. I personally thank them for this. Previously no male designers thought to have pockets we can use besides just the general ticket pocket on a blazer. Their mission statement is as follows: “Through confident clothes and an inspiring community, we’re creating a movement that’s all about self expression in and out of the workplace; versatility as a power move; and radical equality when it comes to paychecks, pockets and everything else.”
Model Atelier is changing how vertically inclined women enjoy suits. They offer custom suiting to ensure that even the tallest woman can look bold, dapper, and distinctive. Gone are the days of having to get a suit off the rack and having it let out so it won’t look shrunken. This is yet another brand for Urban Peacocks, for those who enjoy being the best dressed in the room (or on the Zoom). Sometimes the limits on what looks good on a tall woman are self-imposed. Model Atelier helps you shatter those standards.
Br00klynstuyle is an influencer couple that I thoroughly enjoy. They push the expectations of whether or not gender needs to be assigned to dapper looks. Both you and I can look great and style the same piece in ways that make us both embody our best selves. The clothes are an expression of you, not a uniform to conform. From suits to shorts to trousers, there is practically nothing that you can’t make to fit your own preferences. They do a wonderful job of keeping the looks exciting so you’ll never guess to whom the piece belongs.
I sincerely hope that this post has given you something to think about as you consider or reconsider what menswear means and how women have made an indelible mark on it.
Thanks for reading and y’all stay dandy.
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